Yes, I am back in Barra de Potosi, Mexico, the small four streets by four streets fishing village at the end of the road. It doesn’t get more local than this.
Mainstreet Barra de Potosi
Some things have changed, some things remain the same. Isi and Analeydi, who work at Casa del Encanto where I stay, are here as are Lucy and Martin, a 30-something couple from the Czech Republic who volunteer here. They explained “We just love it here, the lifestyle, the sea, the no stress day-to-day living”. So they are here going on two years.
Analydi and IssiMartin and Lucy
There is a small new farmacia, a hostel and numerous condo units are now completed.
Farmacia
The dentista and the optometrist vans visit the village every few weeks. The fisherman string nets for their catch in the laguna. The street dogs, sunsets and sunrises are much the same.
Locals fishing in the lagunaLots of street dogs
The beach enramadas continue to serve fabulous guacamole, ceviche, shrimp cocktails, local fish and oysters beachside as you wiggle your toes in the sand – barefeet and swimsuits encouraged!
Early morning paddles en la laguna provide viewing for an abundance of waterfowl.
The days consist of yoga classes, leisurely breakfasts, ocean swimming, beach walking and a swim across the channel in the laguna leads to a hike to the deserted beach. Afternoons are for reading, writing and a siesta to beat the afternoon heat and humidity.
Leisurely breakfasts at Casa de EncantoTrail to the deserted beachNo footprints found on this beach for miles and miles
For dinner, local entrepreneurial women set up tables in front of their homes and open their street cafes offering delicious enchiladas verde, sopes, quesadillas, tamales, elote y mucho mas. Or we sauté fresh shrimp or dorado in butter, garlic and lime and enjoy chilled white wine – which is outrageously expensive, as Mexicans prefer cerveza or tequila.
Local street restaurant
An occasional night at Ridleys Pub, the gringo bar, provides music from the Tighty Whiteys, the local gringo band, playing my favorite song Memphis Women, Fried Chicken.
Tighty Whiteys playing at O’Ridleys Bar
If you are looking for night life this is not the place to hang out. Museums – nope, antiquity – nope, upscale restaurants- nope, cafes – nope, lots of shops and sights – nope, ATMs – nope, entertainment – nope, tours – nope, UNESCO designations – nope.
Just simple, rustic village life, on the sea at the end of the road.
Yes, I could venture to more remote, exotic or cultural destinations, yet my annual winter trek always involves spending time al mar or at the sea, immersed and surrounded by sea water and salty air. Is it because I am a Pices, or grew up surrounded by the great lakes, or was swimming in salt water at 9 months, or my DNA has strong ties with zebrafish or sea urchins in the evolutionary tree of life? Or perhaps I intuit the beneficial attributes of swimming in salt water. My MO is always carry a swim suit and towel in your pack.
There is a reason saltwater has been used for curative and healing purposes for centuries. Salt water is a natural exfoliant. As you swim, tiny salt crystals slough off dead skin cells, unclog pores, wash away impurities and excess oils, heal scrapes, cuts and sores and create a clean environment for your skin to thrive. In addition, the pressure of the water enhances the flow of lymphatic fluid.
Rich in minerals including magnesium, zinc, potassium and iodine which can be absorbed through the skin while swimming and has been shown to boost the immune system.
You feel ageless immersing yourself in saltwater. All joint, muscle aches and pains dissolve as the buoyancy of the water removes the pressures of gravity on the body. It’s like swimming with a Mae West vest, without the encumberment.
Add in the physical and mental benefits of swimming – a wonderful total body workout – and the calming attributes, the visual beauty, sounds of the sea, and the smell, taste and feel of salty air as you walk along la playa and you have a perfect recipe for enhanced physical, mental and emotional health.
My favorite swimming hole this winter in Zihuantanejo, Mexico is Playa Contramar, a small, serene cove that is accessed by a short, but steep trail to the rocky beach and perfect for snorkeling and swimming.
Playa ContramarPlaya Contramar
Playa La Ropa offers another option for ocean swimming and beach walking.
Playa La Ropa
And then there is the serenity of Playa Larga, with its 10 miles of pristine walking beach, in Barra de Potosi. Early morning calm water allows for parallel shore swimming. Plus, the 80-degree water temperature makes entering and exiting the water a delight.
Playa Larga at Barra de Potosi
The message I am sending is always take your swimsuit with you and soak up the beneficial effects of Vitamin SEA.
That’s right Paradise, Michigan, located in the UP (upper peninsula) of Michigan on Lake Superior – one of my favorite Yooper areas. Spent 5 days camping, kayaking, hiking, cycling, rock hounding and wandering the beaches of Whitefish Bay.
First stop, Tahquamenon Falls River Mouth State Park on the Tahquamenon River that flows into Whitefish Bay of Lake Superior. Hiking from camp amongst the moss, ferns, mushrooms, the first of the fall leaves, opting for the trail less traveled.
Camp at River Mouth State Park
Cycled to Whitefish Point home of the Shipwreck Museum and the bell of the Edmund Fitzgerald. The mighty Fitzgerald went down in 1974 trying to reach Whitefish Bay in a horrific n’western in Lake Superior. Whitefish Point has been called the graveyard of the Great Lakes. Over 550 ships have gone down in this area of the greatest of the great lakes.
Whitefish Point
Hiking from the upper Tahquamenon Falls to the lower Falls is always a treat as well as a serene kayak up the Tahquamenon River.
Picking wild blueberries, campfires and a good swimming hole all at Andrus Lake State Forest campground just north of Paradise made for a mighty fine Yooper excursion.
Locked up my casita, el nido, and headed out in Euri (VW Eurovan) by way of Oracle and Morenci, driving through a sea of yellow palo verdes and flower topped saguaros. Departing this route is the shortest road to Arizona wilderness with no express ways.
Winding roads through Winkelman and Superior expose big mining in full operation, big copper country. Camped early on the Mogollon Rim, a gentle 67 degrees (40s at night), in the pines. Forests are cleared of brush in preparation for summer forest fires. A short 230-mile driving day. Feels good to be on the road.
Morning room with a view, sipping café to course correct to my current surroundings of lovely cool, fragrant pines.
Day 2
Navajo and Hopi country – dry and barren except for the monolith rock formations, mesas, ghost rain, red sandstone and glowing orange globemallow lining the roadways. Headed through the pueblos of Indian Wells, Chinle, Many Farms, Round Rock and Mexican Water crossing the border into Utah.
Utah, along with northern Arizona is one of the most diverse geological areas of the world.
Listening to audio book Braiding Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer, botanist, professor of plant ecology and native Potawatomi woman. A fascinating review of evolutionary biology of plants and animals and our reciprocal relationship with earth. Apropos for this strand of the journey.
Camped in Bears Ears National Monument on the border of Canyonlands National Park – one of the most scenic and desolate areas in southern Utah. A tributary full of muddy water dumps into the Green River downstream. A meandering 340-mile day.
Day 3
Beautiful scenery around the canyonlands, Arches and northern Colorado. Lots of traffic delays and check engine light came on at higher altitude, a common event with the Eurovans – resolved.
Listening to Fox Across America – the commercials tell it all about the target market: Viagra, Ford Ram trucks, get your GED…
Camped at Yampa River State Park, on the Yampa River in northern Colorado. Robins and magpies are in camp. Chilly and thunderstorms in the area, but a wonderful hot shower. First in 3 days and I feel like a new woman. Listening to Tina Turner sound track and celebrating her life and music with wine (RIP TINA).
400 miles today. Euri and I plan to make miles tomorrow.
Day 4
Woke early from a good night’s sleep. Got up, made coffee and hit the road early for a big drive. 500 miles of blacktop once I hit I80. Mind numbing expressway driving, listening to Louise Penny mystery novel and I picked up a good NPR station out of Laramie, Wyoming – throw back Thursday, playing the Moody Blues, Eagles, Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell and more of my favorite oldies.
Pushed Euri to almost empty – yes the bell was going off…get gas, get gas soon. $4.29/gal in the middle of nowhere Nebraska – $3.09 at my next stop.
Camped at Lake Melody State Park just south of North Platte, Neb. Would not recommend it as it is too close to I80 and town. Lots of kiddos and families here to party for the start of Memorial Day weekend.
Day 5
Sitting out the morning in a downpour, a major cell passing overhead. Sipping coffee and pondering route. Glad I have mini toilet as I didn’t need to leave Euri – other than to bring it inside as I left it outdoors last night. It hit me this morning, I still have 1300-1500 miles to go. Hmmmm, another long day of endless miles.
I thought I’d be sleeping in an I90 rest area tonight due to traveling on Memorial Day weekend. However, my DYRT app performed brilliantly and found a nice, tidy, little county campground in the fairgrounds at Blue Earth, Minnesota. A 600 miles day.
Day 6
Another 500-mile day through Minnesota, into Wisconsin and yes – the UP (upper peninsula of Michigan). Located my favorite little beach and campground on the shores of Lake Michigan and they had sites available.
Those geese are heading my direction.
Day 7
Awoke to beautiful, sunny, calm lake day and drove the north shore of lake Michigan. Stopping for a fresh pastie lunch lakeside and walk along the beach. Nothing like coming in over the magnificent Mackinaw Bridge and Straights of Mackinaw.
A stop at Stone Bay Fishery for a hello to Jay and Jim and picked up fresh perch and whitefish dip.
Took my fist dip from the dock as there is algae all along the shoreline – nasty stuff. Water not too, too frigid as I dipped quickly in and out. A wonderful way to recover from all that driving.
2673 total miles. Happy to have arrived safely at the lake house (Euri performed solid the entire trip!). Nirvana in the north woods.
“Don’t get too relaxed, you may never leave” read a sign where I stayed in Playa Gigante, Nicaragua eight years ago. Feeling that same calling here at Casa del Encanto as I return to Barra de Potosi where it is easy to slide into the rhythm of slow living.
Casa del Encantoopen air bedroom
Casa del Encanto is an enchanted little oasis (open air rooms and patios that let in all the village sounds, no AC, and mosquito nets) in this small fishing village that draws an array of fascinating people. I have swapped stories with the park ranger partly responsible for the development of the Chilian Patagonia National Park, listened to a famed mariachi play and sing during breakfast and a poet, working on her 20th book, recite some of her work. And Laura, creator and owner of Casa del Encanto, shares daily tales of village lore, beach erosion, local cartels and more.
Mariachi music during breakfast, Laura, owner seated center
This uber simple and somewhat primitive life provides a layer of shelter from the chaos, stress and busyness of the real world. The community carries on its daily life:
Digging footers for a small new casita by hand, repairing fishing nets, maintaining vehicles along the dirt roadways, making furniture and setting up street cafes in the evenings.
Street cafeTamales, pozole and elote today!!Repairing siding netsLocal wood worker
Meditative beach walks, daily sea swims, walks to wild, deserted beaches and watching the pelicans soar and dive are the norm. My kind of vibe…
Trail to wild, deserted beachNothing but driftwood for miles on this beach
And I have been privileged to meet and converse with some fascinating women this trip. I marvel at the number of single women travelers and locals between the ages of 60 and 85. It was serendipitous that I landed in Zihua or Zihuantanejo, the name derived from the Nahautl word “Zihuatlan”, which means land of women. Murals and statues of local women grace the Malecon and walkways throughout the city.
mural of abulitas
Perhaps it is not surprising there are bountiful numbers of robust, adventuresome older women. 49% of U.S. women over the age of 65 live single and they are exploring the world and diversifying their social networks with gusto. Social scientists have long documented ways in which many older women blossom after widowhood, divorce and grief as they learn new skills, develop strong social ties and boost personal growth.
Research has shown that people who interact with a diverse social portfolio report greater life satisfaction and a more varied social network is a stronger predictor of subjective wellbeing than being married.
Who are these women I have had the good fortune to meet and interact with and how did I meet them:
Lynda from Saskatchewan, Canada. A retired RN who flew into Uranium mines in northern Canada working a week on, a week off. Now retired spending several winter months in Mexico. We met swimming and snorkeling at a small cove in Zihua.
Maggie a 25-year resident of Zihuantanejo, Mexico. A retired language interpreter for the United Nations. We met on a snorkeling cruise.
Maggie on the left – always a smile
Judy from the Chicago area and lifelong friend of Jill who now resides in Zihuatanejo. We met at the local pozole restaurant where Judy shared her 13-year courageous battle with cancer and is now finishing another and possibly final bout of chemo. She was determined to spend time in Mexico with her lifelong friend.
Judy and Jill
Lori, a 13-year resident of Barra de Potosi and mover and shaker behind El Nido guest house and community center where I stayed for a week. Lori has also started a sewing collectivo for local women.
Laura, 30-year resident of Barra de Potosi, creator and owner of Casa Del Encanto where I spent another 10 days. A former PI from California she settled in Barra when there was no infrastructure or paved roads and created a truly enchanted Mexican B and B.
An all women family who were my neighbors at El Nido. The abulita of the family, pictured with two of her daughters and grand daughters had 10 children.
My lovely neighbors at El Nido
Gila in her 80s and my house mate at El Nido in Barra de Potosi. Gila travels to this little fishing village several times a year to escape California and the U.S. and relishes the simple village life.
Gila and her adventuresome spirt
Each of these women are gracefully moving through various stages of life on their own terms, living with adventure and vibrancy. Each has an interesting story. They are truly inspirational.
Packed up my small roller duffle and backpack and took 3 combis to Barra de Potosi, literally to the end of the road. 25K south of Zihuantanejo, Barra de Potosi a small fishing village on the Pacific coast, nestled at the southern most end of the 13K long pristine Playa Larga (long beach).
Playa Larga
A smattering of enramadas (thatched roof seafood restaurants) line a small section of the beach.
Enramada
One side of the village is located on a 7K long saltwater lagoon, and home to a famous bird and wildlife sanctuary. There is the usual assortment of street dogs, early morning chickens and doves and loud music, especially on the weekends when the locals from surrounding communities head to the beach. They say the difference between a gringo and a Mexican is the gringo says “Where is that loud music coming from?” and a Mexican says “Where is the party?” Ahhh, living local in Mexico.
El Nido (the nest), my accommodation for the week hosts 3 small bedrooms each with a private bath, communal kitchen, spacious terrazzo and is two blocks from the beach. Nothing fancy, more like a mini hostel, no hot water and as in most of Mexico the toilet paper goes in the basket, not down the toilet and there may be no water for a few hours. There’s a yoga class in the morning on the terrazza and a Spanish class two days a week.
entrance to El Nido
Las casitas here are small, some colorful and full of plants.
The locals are friendly and welcoming when you take the time to strike a conversation with them. Camen at the fruit stand, Ramiro at Enramada de Condenda and Chely who rents kayaks and teaches the Spanish class and my neighbors
My lovely neighborsCarmen at the fruit stand
So, what does one do here in this tiny beach side Mexican village?
Take long walks en la playa, swim en el mar, head to the O Ridleys cantina on Friday night (open 3 nights a week) to listen to the local gringo band play my new favorite song (Memphis Women Fried Chicken. Check it out at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mqAZt7xsdg.
O Ridley’s CantinaLocal gringo band
Then there is kayaking en la laguna, wander about (which doesn’t take long in this tiny village of mostly dirt roads) and eat marvelous seafood every day, barefoot, at the thatched roofed enramadas right on the beach.
Oh my can’t beat this 300 peso meal and margarita
Gotta lay low in the heat of the day from 1-4pm reading, writing and having a siesta. Then it’s time for another dip in the sea, some ceviche rojo (a specialty of the area) and a cold cerveza or margarita.
Ceviche rojo
There are fewer gringo tourists here, most stay in Zihua. However, there is a small but robust expat community, mostly Canadians, that have been here for many years. Unfortunately, Barra de Potosi has been discovered and there is new construction and refurbishing of current buildings happening throughout the village and along the beach.
Esta la Buena vida aqui….just booked another week.
Peaceful, calm water early this morning as I slide into my kayak before sunrise for a paddle about Laguna de Potosi. Bordering the small fishing village, Barra de Potosi, the saltwater lagoon measures about 18 km, is home to more than 212 species of birds and a sanctuary for local fauna including 3 types of mangroves. I push off from shore just as the full moon is setting in the west.
Full moon setting over the laguna
As I paddle east the sun rises, peaking over the mountains, bringing the heat of the day.
Sunrise on the laguna
Sheltered fishing pangas are tucked in mangrove cervices for safety and to weather storms. I am the only one out here, except for two small fishing pangas paddling across the laguna.
Paddling deeper into the laguna the sound of pounding surf is off to the right and behind me. Inlets through dense mangroves provide lush areas for many species of wetland and sea birds including herons, cranes, spoonbills, egrets, chachalacas, terns, kingfishers, an assortment of pelicans and seagulls, plus many more. A giant spider scurries up a mangrove stalk and disappears.
Egret
Quiet, thoughtful time exploring the laguna and enjoying the birdlife.
Combi, short for collectivo or small transport van, in which you hop on and then off when you get to your destination. They run everywhere in this area of Mexico and cut down on the number of vehicles and traffic significantly. And they are inexpensive to ride. The bench seats are configured around the interior of the van, so it is easy to enter and exit.
Ready to hop on
They are primarily used by locals; the gringos prefer taxis. The price of a combi to ride up the hill where I am staying from El Centro is 13 pesos or about 65 cents vs 85 pesos or about $4.25 for a taxi.
I prefer the combis as they allow you to see a bit more of the city versus taking the most immediate route. I’ve got no meeting to go to, so why not. It’s part of living local.
street musicians – scenes from the combilaundry day – scenes from the combi
I’ve learned it takes two combis to get to the airport and two to get to Playa LaRopa across the bay, etc. There is a main combi transfer area (like a bus station) in El Centro, alongside the main highway through Zihuantanejo, where the combis zip quickly in and out for drop offs and pick-ups.
The location they service is written on the front windshield and each location is noted by a different color strip on the side the van. Combi etiquette involves quietly saying buenos dias to the other passengers when you enter, then you take a seat, and you pay the driver when exiting.
On the combi this morning a young woman stepped on breastfeeding a newborn, said buenos dias, and continued to breastfeed till she got off in El Centro, still breastfeeding. So natural and part of everyday life here in Mexico. I wonder if this would happen in the US without someone being appalled, offended, or the woman being arrested as she departed for indecent exposure.
I’ve grown partial to walking into town from my hillside perch in the mornings and riding the combi back about mid-day to avoid the 170 steps going up in 85-degree temps and humidity.
Life is a series of journeys, experiences and encounters.
Indiana farm land
“Are you one of those Nomad ladies?”, he asks in his Oklahoma farmland drawl as I am washing my windshield trying to reach the smattering of bugs obscuring my view. “What do you mean nomad lady?” I respond. “Well, you know, one of them ladies who lives in her van and travels all over. I saw your stickers.”
A myriad of replies sprint through my mind:
You recognize me. Would you like my autograph?
I ain’t no mad at anyone. I love people.
No, I have two homes, one in Arizona and one in Michigan.
I started this trip in Spain and now I’m passing through Oklahoma….do I tell him Spain is not a state?
I’m on a pro-life, pro-woman tour through the Midwest to get out the vote.
I chuckle and respond kindly, “I do like to travel in my Eurovan for one or two weeks, but don’t live in it full time.” “I thought I’d ask. I saw the movie.” he continues, curious about a 70-plus year-old woman, traveling solo in her van in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma. “Thanks for asking and stopping by to chat” I say as I finish pumping gas. Life is a series of journeys, experiences and encounters and cross-country road trips are like an anthology of life in the U.S.A.
Yes, I’m on the road again, as Willie Nelson belts out another song on the radio. I have an affinity for local radio to sense the vibes as I skim across states in this vast land. As the pilot I sat next to on my flight from Malaga to Madrid told me, “I love the U.S. It’s my favorite country. I visit every two years. I love how everything is so big and there is so much space and wilderness.” Well, he has a point, it is big, diverse and has so much space and wilderness.
New Mexico
This trip I tuned the radio into a sermon, Standing for Christ in a Collapsing Society; a talk show, Thankful Thursday for God – but it was only Monday; a solitary NRP station close to Kansas City; a great Classic Rock station near Springfield, Ill.; a diatribe on a Fox news channel berating and bashing the “libbies” in this country (socialist democratic liberal elites) OUCH…nasty stuff!; Christian country music; and the latest hot tunes (none of which I recognized).
Oklahoma
Reading excepts for Jack Kerouac ‘s 1957, On the Road, before heading out on another one-way 2500-mile journey from Michigan to Tucson, I was thankful not to be traveling Kerouac style back in the 60s. I have my faithful, sturdy Euri (2001 Volkswagen Eurovan) for transport – my little home-away-from-home. Got my road atlas, books on tape and an assortment of food and wine for sustenance till I reach the ole pueblo.
Harry Truman State Park, MOState park, New Mexico
The fall colors are teasing as I head south out of Michigan, too early for big splashes of color in Indiana and Illinois. Definitely fall scenes in the country side and small towns. I try to avoid the major east/west passages (I80, I70, I40) filled with snake forms of semi-trucks keeping the supply chain flowing east to west, west to east and through all the major cities. I prefer to cruise two or four lane roads, passing through smaller Midwest towns and bergs. No pedal to the meddle driving, just cruising and enjoying the local sights and scenery.
Illinois
The state parks in most areas offer cozy camp spots, shower houses and trails for hiking and cycling. I rely on The Dyrt camping app to find camp spots when needed in sparse areas. Most campgrounds were not busy this time of year.
Salt Plains State Park, OK
The Midwest and southwest drought in evident in Kansas, Oklahoma and northern New Mexico as the once teeming reservoirs sit nearly empty. Good news, as I fill up this gas guzzler once or twice a day. Gas has dropped from $4.99 last June to around $3.59. The lowest I saw was $3.35 in Oklahoma and the panhandle of Texas.
And then I hit the New Mexico state line where I am in awe of the sky, full of billowing clouds, ghost rain and monsoonal cloud dumps in the distance. I smell the rain in the desert and my Arizona casita beckons me home.
New Mexico sky
So here’s to road trips big and small and adventures – the kind you just can’t describe.
