As soon as the train left Verona heading north the scenery started to change. A wonderful valley – I was thinking this would be a great bike route – with vineyards leading to towering mountains on both sides. As I was hefting my bag onto the train a nice man grabbed the end of the bag and boosted me up. He later joined me in the seat across from mine. Olimpiu, Romanian, a mechanical engineer, who now lives and workes in Italy because he could make more money as a hiking guide in the summer and free skiing guide in the winter then he could as an engineer in Romania. Plus – he prefers hiking and skiing to engineering. He wanted to know if I had a fitness TV show in the US. He thought I looked famous. It must have been those Italian chic pants I was wearing that I picked up in Verona.

 The bus from Bolzano to Castelrotto begin to climb into the mountains immediately. How do these bus drivers maneuver these miniature winding mountain roads? What a skill.

Landed in Castelrotto – a small mountain town of 2000 at 3800ft. Good thing I didn’t send home any of my warm clothes. I’m going to need them here! Am staying at a wonderful hotel in Castelrotto – the Cavalino Hotel, a Rick Steve’s recommendation and a great decision. The hotel is owned by Stephan and Suzanne, gracious and welcoming hosts. I walked in the door and Stephan called out – I know who you are – Gwen – the fitness woman from America. He had checked out my website. I felt like a celebrity – must have been those Italian chic pants I was wearing.

Cavolino Hotel in Castelrotto

 More about Castelrotto later…. First the food at the Cavalino – The 4 course dinner was magnificent – cabbage soup, ravioli funghi, sautéed fish, spinach and potatoes, and chocolate mousse that melted in your mouth (there was also a salad bar which I didn’t even look at because I had no room). I had a glass of wine before dinner in the lounge and then found that you could only order a 1/4 L (2 more glasses) in the dinning room. Oh why not – serve it up.

 Have my hiking route planned for tomorrow – recommendation from Stephan. I’ll need to do some serious hiking with a full breakfast and a four-course meal with wine every evening.

The hotel is delightful and filled with Trioli antiques, quite exquisite, and also has a library, computer for Internet, sauna, and massage available. What more could a women ask for…well maybe a pedicure. My room has a balcone that looks out onto the Dolomites – yes I have been dropped into dolomite dreamland!