No one in line when we crossed the border at Mexicali to pick up my FFM stamped visa – 180 days – no problema. Our first overnight in San Felipe we found Victors RV Park, on the south edge of town with clean toilets and hot showers (200 pesos). Heading south the next day through arid landscape, dotted with scrappy Boojums, plenty of trash, frequent llanta (tire) garages (must be a common issue), and occasional federales road checks, we finally skirted the Sea of Cortez coastline which offered stunning views, along a winding Highway 5.

Our second destination, San Ignacio laguna. We arrived in pouring rain and landed at Rice and Beans RV parking lot right off the highway. A fabulous margarita in the small restaurant compensated for the less than savory bathroom located in an unused hotel room.

Our third day, damp and mud covered, we headed Euri (Eurovan) towards the coast and the seaside town of Santa Rosalia – oh my, the armpit of the Baja. This grimy, industrial port town had depilated vibes and an air of devious behavior. We skedaddled through – destination Mulege. The landscape quickly shifted to cardon cactus and more verdant vegetation.

Don Chano’s RV park, located across the road from the Rio de Mulege provided a nice refuge for three nights and time to recoup from the drive. A collective of long-time repeaters and newbies to the area created a bohemian atmosphere. We popped the champagne and rang in the New Year. Our walk abouts in the area yielded a beautiful mission and stumming views of the river.

Bounding south we quickly hit Bahia Concepcion, destination lovely beaches. Landing at Playa el Coyote we camped for the night, enjoying long stretches of sandy beach, calm waters for swimming and soaring, diving pelicans that amused us for hours. No wifi here, you pull up along a thatched palapa and camp.

Next stop Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico.