Not much level round in Cinque Terre or anywhere along the Ligurian coast. Whether hiking, cruising the small village streets, transferring trains, or getting to your room you go up or you go down. The 400 steps from the train station up to Corniglia where I am staying has become a daily ritual and are no longer taken with trepidation or heavy breathing.

More stairs

All of the climbing does lead to some spectacular vistas.

Portofino

Portofino

Vernanzza

Manorola

Vernazza

Vernazza

A distant view of Corniglia up on the bluff

Corniglia (pronounced Cornelia) is perched atop a rock outcropping 400 steps above the train station with stunning views of the Mediterranean.

A colorful little place with a view

It is the smallest and least busy of the 5 Cinque terra towns. I arrived on a Saturday (busiest day) and a beautiful sunny day (many tourists out and about) without a reservation. One goes about searching for a camere (room) by asking in the little bars/cafes. The room owners stroll the city center until they find someone to rent their rooms. One café owner took me out into the square- as she knew all of the local women and inquired about rooms – and with luck we must have found the last remaining room in the city – owned by a French woman, Stephanie. The apartment is on the main street (or alleyway), above a bar, and up more stairs. Clean, spacious, kitchen, large private bath, windows overlooking the street directly below. It is  noisy during the daytime with the local and tourist street buzz. Not a room with a view but only a few minutes to spectacular overlooks. Using Cornelia as my base for 8 days I’ll hike and train exploring the region.

My apartment/home for the next 8 days

The local swimming hole. A bit too rough for a dip today!

Sunset at Corniglia

Windows wide open to let in the morning air and sounds of awakening….the cukoo bird with his morning hello, the church bells signaling the hour, horns of the cars traversing the horseshoe turns on the roads, the hills rising across the valley and the stately and prominent church of San Ginese. Soft voices from the kitchen below warming the day.

view from the front yard

Our personal bike mechanic - Dave - cleaning and lubing the bikes

Wet and washed clothes hanging everywhere. Bikes, helmets, shoes, and water bottles scattered under the roof of the side veranda. Travel books and maps littering the small table in the main living area next to the long, inviting, soft leather couch.

Our hill top pool - only too cold to swim!

The kitchen filled with smells of garlic, olive oil, bread, cheeses, meats and wines…and of course cookies and licorice. Washed and stacked dishes ready to use again soon. Communal cooking, sharing, living.

Another wonderful evening of communal dinning

Expansive green grass carpets the outdoors where the stone table sits awaiting guests to savor the food and enjoy the view. A small shaded pathway, lined with flowers leads upward to the serenity of the pool and vast sky. Breath taking on first view.

The ride/walk on the dirt or often muddy two track road opens to this stunning, peaceful, remote villa – our Italian home for two weeks.

The road to the villa

Che gioia – What joy

What happens at the villa - stays at the villa!

What a wonderful time together, great rides, food, wine, and memories –  Shawna, Howard, Rose, Larry, Dave, Michelle, Tim, Doug, and Camille

May 2010

Ciao

cheese and anchovies

cheese, eggplant, tomato, pepperoni

Our chefs for the evening – Leonella and Olivia stoked up the outdoor pizza oven at the villa and treated us to bruchetta pompodora and 13 different types of delicious pizza with thin hand-tossed Italian crust and fresh ingredients. Check out this gastrointestinal delight!

Olivia and Leonella at the pizza oven

cheese, salomino, artichokes, onions

cheese, tuna, artichoke, onion

margarhita

marscaponi and proscuitto

provolone, mozzarella, panchetta

cheese, artichoke and tomotoe

And for dessert!!! Nutella - chocolate and hazel nut - Yummy!

Today a wonderful adventure – and yes a long day. Left Villa on bikes at 7:30am. Train to Florence with transfer to Sienna.

Bikes on train

Took an hour and a few extra hills to find our way out of Sienna onto a wonderful road through the Tuscan hills– and I mean hills – Chianti country.

Vineyards in every direction

Villas and vineyards, vineyards and villas

Quaint hilltop villages – oh yes we climbed those hills…and then the joy of the long winding descent. Sienna to Florence by bike -110K day.

Hey - there's another hill top village - let's go!

Oh Yea lunch! Pass the bread and olive oil.

List villages –

Legs felt good, Traps and neck very stiff and butt – from seams on shorts and bike seat.

The most delicious meal I have had yet – Tarentielle pasta in butter and olive oil with garlic and fresh tomatoes. Oh my…succulent!

Another hour finding our way through Florence to the train station – 1 ½ ride back to Lucca and the final 10 K by bike to the villa.

Camille, Doug, and Rose had garlic toast, pasta and wine waiting for us. Oh we love you!

That hot shower felt so good as does this bed.

We are riding in the rain – again!

Hey…The rain in Spain is mainly on the plain. The rain in Tuscany is every damn day!

Does it ever stop raining here? Never been this wet when riding. Shoes and socks are soaked.

Hey - our socks are soaked - again!

Thank goodness for the rain jacket I bought at TriSports before I left and….hot tea, hot chocolate cappuccino, warm bike shirts, good friends, LOTS of wine and great food.

Michelle washing her muddy wet shoes

Our ride to the coast landed us in the port of Viareggio – salty smell of the sea, succulent seafood, and mega sailboats.

The local catch of the day

El Groupo

Another great day on the bike!

I can't believe we missed the Giro!

By 15 minutes…we were so close. The Giro de Italia – the Tour de France of Italy. Passing right through Pontadera, about a 45 minute bike ride from the villa. Planned to ride over early but it was raining again. Decided to leave villa about noon in a light rain. 3 flats enroute.

When we reached Pontadera the riders had passed through 15 mins earlier. Damn!

But hey we got Doug in his new kit. A Giro wannabe!

WOW!!

And got to ride in the rain. Discovered some new roads and savored chocolate cauldo y apricot crepes. And Camile and Gwen changed their flat after searching out a bike shop to secure tubes, tire irons and a pump.

Amazing roads of Tuscany

Another day of adventure in Tuscany with friends, good wine and great food!

Another evening with la familia

All pedals on

Pedals on, fitted and adjusted bikes, and it was off to Lucca. The most harrowing part of each ride is getting down the ¼ mile dirt road, which is slick and a bit muddy from all of the rain. Once on pavement it’s a downhill ride into Lucca – about 20-25 mins. OUr bike guru and guide Paulodina took us climbing through rain forest-like vegetation. You can feel and smell the fertility of the region, oozing olive and garlic aromas, plus the sweet fragrances of everything that’s blooming. Small country roads, through tiny lanes, past immense villas with rustic colors and many years of history.

Gotta love these roads

Café and of course more bread, salami, proscuito, cheese for lunch. Can’t think of anything else I’d rather be doing!

El Groupo Italiano