Labor Day in northern Michigan marks the end of summer and the beginning of cooler, fall weather. Nighttime temps along with lake water temperatures begin to drop. Rafts, docks and boats are winterized and stored. The geese head south… as do I.

It has been another grand summer at the lake house on the Straights of Mackinaw and in the small northern Michigan berg of Cheboygan. Here is a quick recap of life in northern Michigan:

Putting in the raft for the summer and swimming in the cold big lake water 

The annual Cheboygan 4^th of July parade

A boat trip to and bike ride around the infamous Mackinaw Island, home of the Grand Hotel where we always stop to savor a big porch ale on the grandest and longest porch in the world.

FUN time with Neil and Fiona on Mackinaw Island this summer

Riding miles of bike trails and rural roads

Friday nights at the local Cheboygan brewery listening to the Brew House Band and sipping Blood Orange Honey brew

Kayaking the lakeshore

Enjoying the apple cinnamon scones at the Up North Bakery

Spending time with family that you only have the pleasure of seeing once a year

Crossing over the 5-mile expanse of the Mackinaw Bridge with fabulous views of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron

Eating as much fresh lake fish and sweet corn as possible while it is in season

Shopping at the local farm markets

A lovely, lazy cruise down the Cheboygan river

Visiting the Sault Ste Marie boat locks connecting Lake Superior to the St. Mary’s shipping channel that leads to Lake Huron or Lake Michigan

Savoring lake sunrises and sunsets

Wine tasting at the local vineyards

Just kicking back and enjoying time at the family lake house – built from Lake Huron rock/stone

And now it’s off to the next adventure….Ljublana, Slovenia – arrive tomorrow…stayed tuned.

Visualize the Great Lakes of Michigan – sandy beaches, the giant dunes on Lake Michigan, light houses, fresh water, or the spectacular Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore on Lake Superior. The popular and bustling gold coast towns that dot the coastline of Lake Michigan – Ludington, Traverse City, Charlevoix, Petoskey, Harbor Springs. 

Rarely does one imagine the “rust belt”, the more industrial areas along the Lake Huron coast, stretching from the east side of the Straights of Mackinaw to the Bluewater Bridge of Port Huron at the southernmost tip of Lake Huron. 206 miles of Michigan shoreline and the longest total shoreline of all the great lakes if you count the shorelines of its 30 islands. Lake Huron is the second largest great lake and the 5^th largest freshwater lake in the world. Named from the Native American tribe, the Hurons, the coastline was also home to the Chippewa and Odawa, who were avid fur traders with the French, voyagers and missionaries of the region. 

Heading east along the lake shore I camp at Hoeft State Park (a mere 36 miles from Cheboygan), nestled in the trees along several miles of pristine sandy, pebbled and nearly deserted beaches. Lush green walking trails through the woods induce a state of forest bathing. A perfect spot to commune with nature.

An easy paved 4-mile bike trail leads to 40-mile Lighthouse.

Spent the next day on the bike exploring Thompson Harbor State Park (no camping) and Presque Isle, 20 miles south of Hoeft State Park. Three lighthouses, the Front Range, Old Presque Isle and the New Presque Isle lighthouse dot the coastline along with more pristine beaches, wetlands, quiet walking paths and trees galore – all surrounded by vibrant blue water, Lake Huron. With 147 steps to the tower, the new Presque Isle lighthouse is the 5th tallest on the great lakes and offers spectacular views.

My next ride was the paved, lakeside bike path from the State Park to Rogers City, flanked by six magnificent swans in flight alongside me, and a mighty tail wind that allowed me almost to keep up with them. 

Rogers City, a clean, tidy little town, is home to the world’s largest open pit limestone quarry, the Port of Calcite, located within the city limits. The port is one of the largest shipping ports in the U. S.  and located near the worlds’s largest cement plant in Alpena, Michigan.

On November 18, 1958, the freighter, SS Carl D. Bradley (home port Rogers City), sank with 33 crew in Lake Michigan. There were two survivors, 26 of the deceased were from Rogers City, the remainder from surrounding communities. The Great Lakes Maritime Museum and memorial park is located in Rogers City. At the bottom of Lake Huron rest hundreds of well-preserved shipwrecks, many not far from shore and popular with divers, snorkelers and kayakers.

Imagine, Rogers City is 36 miles from where I graduated from high school, and I have never explored east of my hometown…. It’s a small world…with some stunning beaches and scenery. Love those deserted beaches.

Headed to northern Michigan with my new (2001) Euri, caravanning with Neil in his 2002 Rialto.

Day 1

Leaving the desert heat headed east on I-10 the landscape is dry, parched, in need of summer rain. At Alamogordo we ditch the expressway, head north on highway 54 to wide open, easy driving, Billy the Kid country. Our first night camp lands us in the lava fields at the Valley of Fire National Recreational area near Corrizozo, New Mexico, a boom town, when the railroad was built here in 1899. Dark sky territory and a whole lot of nothing but high desert vistas and a sky full of stars.

Day 2

Buzzed though the northwest corner of New Mexico, the panhandles of Texas and Oklahoma and into Kansas. Constant railroad container cars and semi-trucks hauling the nation’s goods along with Loves gas or whatever you need – not to be confused with Lauve’s.

Night two we camped at Meade State Park, Meade, Kansas – home of the Dalton Gang. A small fishing reservoir (they call them lakes around these parts), fresh mowed grass, a green oasis campsite in the middle of BIG AG country. And I mean big AG country – massive feed lots (makes me want to forgo that burger) and Herefords for sale. Wind farms and a few oil rigs dot fields of alfalfa, wheat and soybeans that stretch to the horizon.

Passing through small towns, some mostly deserted, others hanging on with a bustling main street. What do people do here? Agriculture, oil, petro chemicals, fertilizers, farm machinery (John Deere), semi-truck service industries, maintenance and mechanics.

Day 3

Kansas had recent rain and is verdant green – greener than I have ever seen Kansas. Oh, Dorothy are we still in Kansas? 400 miles of traversing Kansas, we camped just over the border in Missouri at Pomme de Terre State Park. A refreshing dip (along with a lone water snake) in the morning is a perfect weay to start the day along with a strong cup of outdoor percolated coffee that Neil brewed up.

Day 4

Still on highway 54 we traversed through Lake of the Ozarks country and small Midwest Missouri towns, crossing the mighty Mississippi into Illinois. Silaom Springs State Park was our next camp (seriously in the middle of nowhere…). These campgrounds are not tourist destinations, with camp areas less than half filled on a Saturday night by locals and a few cross-country travelers who savor exploring the back roads of America. A mama deer with little bambis in camp this evening.

Day 5

Neil and I split company at the intersection Highway 24 and 136, along the Illinois River. He headed onwards to Chicago and I towards of Michigan passing through Indiana – more Big Ag, but working my way into Big tree country – Michigan.

Day 6

A 4hr drive to the northern tip of the lower peninsula of Michigan. Oh I could smell the big water, cedar, pines and earthy forests. and finally – I have arrived.

An easy 45-minute flight in the puddle jumper, seated right behind the pilot, we arrived on la costa de Oaxaca, transported to a new reality. Reminiscent of Haight-Ashbury – peace/love/marijuana/barefoot hippies, and oh yea…nudity…the beach burg of Zipolite.

Gritty streets, mural artists, rustic accommodations, thatched roofs, mariscos y cerveza, big surf, fabulous walking beaches and expat locals that look like they have been here way too long. Who am I to judge the good life of others? 

Hot and humid – so the lack of hot water showers is not an issue. AC – ha… fans abundant, along with mosquito nets and sheets only. Culbrebocas (masks) are almost nonexistent, a complete reversal from la ciudad de Oaxaca – where everyone masks up. We continue to mask up around others and take precautions.

Week two we move to the hillside hotel Arigalan with fabulous views of the coast, stunning sunrises, a lovely private patio and our personal dipping pool, which I visit frequently throughout the day because it is so dang hot and humid.

To the south and 110 steps below we have a quaint small bay with good snorkeling and swimming and the wonderful walking beach of San Augustinillo.

Down the hill to the north is the small beach town of Mazunte filled with yoga and meditation centers, massage, reiki, dark rooms, aroma therapy, vegetarian restaurants and all types of folks seeking spiritual enlightenment.

Beach life happens on mañana time…

In my mind’s eye, the best way to explore and become intimate with a new country is by bicycle. Our Sunday forays on the bikes release us from the city and have stretched into all day wanderings of 50 kilometers plus about the countryside. The cyclovia transports us to el campo in 6-7K, then we pick a road (paved or dirt) and head towards a pueblo. 

Last week our destination was Teotitlan de Valle, home of the famous wool weavers.

This week, we explored the opposite side of the valle, heading towards San Sebastian Teitipac. Each excursion meanders through agricultural and rural landscapes, many small pueblos and always includes a stop for local food and drink, our favorite a tlyuda and cervesa.

I enjoy exploring the antiquity of the old churches that grace each pueblo. Most are surrounded by courtyards, massive trees, flowers and a town square or park, which provide the lugares publicos (public places) for the local community.

And when you are ready to rent a bike in Oaxaca, Pedro Martinez is the place to go. We rented top of the line Orbea mountain bikes – clean and well maintained. Plus Pedro and Theresa are welcoming, friendly folks sharing routes and conversation.

Para mi (for me) there is nothing more joyful than spending a day on the bike exploring the backroads of a new country. I rented a trusty steed, a turquoise Orbea mountain bike – it had my name on it, and headed out of the city to el campo (the countryside) to fend off the political and coronavirus blues.

Starting on the ciclovia, a gritty multi-use trail that runs down the center of a meridian on a busy four lane road, we rode out of the city and into the countryside to our first destination, Santa Maria el Tule. El Tule is home to the largest tree in the world and surrounded by a lovely church, gardens and community park.

From El Tule we head uphill to the Copilla (chapel) Virgen de Juquila and the trailhead to las peidras (the rocks). 

Traversing east on dirt roads we meandered through fertile agricultural areas, small farms and numerous pueblos.  

RESPECTO, actuar sin perjudicar a los dema’s (Respect – act without harming others). This sign in the pueblo, Rojas de Cuauhtemoc, is reflective of the social and cultural norms of the local people who reside in the small pueblos and countryside.

A church and central square or park grace each pueblo along with small tiendas, fruit and vegetable stands, carnicerias, auto/equipment repair shops, food carts, and an assortment of vintage VW buses and beetles.

Forks in the road lead to choosing the least traveled path, new sights and discoveries. 

Celebrating a pleasurable ride, we relaxed with of course, a corona and chili rellenos, before heading back to Oaxaca.

Si, que era un buen dia en la bicicleta (Yes, it was a good day on the bike).

January 6, 2021 -Considering the events in the U.S. today I feel it is apropos to post this blog.

The pool where I swim (Acurela) in Oaxaca reopened after being closed for two weeks during the holidays. This small oasis of water has been a sanctity of sanity for me during Covid-19. It is actually a swim school and has two small pools – one for beginning lessons for children and adults and the other for open swim, aqua aerobics classes and adult lessons. The staff is friendly, efficient and dedicated to teaching aquatics and aquatic safety. The facility is taking multiple safety and sanitization measures during Covid-19 including masks, a temperature check, shoe bath, hand sanitizing and a spray sanitizing of any equipment, purses or backpacks before entering the facility. The facility and locker rooms are impeccably clean and constantly spray sanitized throughout the day.

Today I noticed a new sign on the wall titled Nuestro Mayor Orgullo (Our Greatest Pride) when I was leaving the pool area. I have copied it in Spanish below followed by the English translation. It represents what it is like living in Oaxaca, Mexico v.s. in the U.S. at this time. The message reflects the true culture, sincerity and nature of the Mexican people. U.S. take note.

Nuestro mayor orgullo

La Certeza de encontrar

En nuestra labor,

La possibilidad de ser

mejores personas

en nuestras ditintas

areas de crecimineto.

Ensenamos

no solo a nadar bien,

sino Tambien a vivir bien

y a mejorar nuestras

posturas ante la vida.

Ofecer el espacio acuatico

como fuente de estimulacion

de las posibilidades humanas,

es nuesrtra vocacion;

la razon mas profunda

de nuestra existencia.

En Acuarela

nuestra ensenanza

es para la vida

todos apendemos

todos nos cuidamos y

nos enriquecemos.

Our Greatest Pride

The certainty of finding

in our work

the possibilities to be

better people

in our different

areas of growth

we teach

not just to swim well

and to improve our

attitudes in the face of life

we offer the water space

as a stimulus

of human possibilities

in our vocation

the deepest reason

of our existence

In Acurela

our teaching 

is for life

we all learn

we all care

and we all are enriched.