La ciudad de Oaxaca, the gem of Mexican cities, featured as the premier urban destination in Mexico and Latin America by the World Travel Awards in 2020, has a scarcity of gringos and tourists in the time of Covid – 19. Oaxaca is not deserted, not busy, perhaps reminiscent of time prior to the infiltration of world tourists and expats.
Not many tourists roaming the streets
Quit a contrast from my last visit in Jan/Feb 2020 (pre-covid) when the streets were full of colorful, indigenous merchants and wares and a plethora of tourists.
The local businesses are open, while the tourist attractions and destinations remain closed including the museums, botanical gardens, archeological sites, cooking classes and most tours. The pueblos, which normally draw unprecedented numbers of tourists to engage with and aid commerce with local artisans, are closed to prohibit the spread of Covid-19 to the small pueblos with limited health care and facilities.
Restaurants are opening, with take-out and street food popular with locals and the expats that have stayed on.
Enjoying tamale mole – para llavar (to go)
Most recurring three- and six-month US and Canadian citizens and part time expats have opted out of their annual trek to the city. The tourist economy is hurting, yet local commerce is gearing up to a more normal pace.
Currently the state of Covid-19 in Oaxaca is yellow, having vacillated between yellow and orange the past several months. Masks are mandatory and there are reports of induvial being arrested or fined for not wearing cubrebocas (masks). The government recommends to “Quedate en casa” (stay home).
Stay at home
We avoid large crowds, gyms (which have opened), the larger and busy mercados, and other guests at the Band B. Our days involve daily errands (food, laundry, essentials), exercise (walks, stair climbing and swimming), socializing within a small bubble of residents at the BandB, exploring barrios and murals, enjoying street performers and musicians (at a distance), writing and reading. Nothing overly exciting, yet it feels refreshing to be out of the US and immersed in a different culture during a time when it is impossible to travel to most international destinations.
FarmaciaBarrio JalatlacoFabulous muralsStreet performerI found a great pool – uber clean and not crowdedA great workout doing repeats on these stairsOur favorite local mercado – Sanchez PascuaIt’s 5 o’clock somewhere
Feeling safe in San Jose de Cabo in the Baja. The locals mask up and distance. Hand sanitizer proliferates, shoe dusters and temperature readers common. The resort and restaurants are regulated to 30-40% capacity.
Even the plaza in San Jose de Cabo El Centro looks quite deserted on a Friday evening.
It’s the gringos pool and bar side one must be wary of. It’s not surprising that few countries will accept tourists from the United States. Mexico is open, they desperately need tourist dollars. I am happy to oblige safely and respectfully. I just head to the deserted beach chairs, far from poolside, and mask up when out and about.
It was the perfect place to spend election week, away from the acrimonious fray and continuous tension in the US, watching the baby turtle release, snorkeling, swimming and savoring the surf and seafood.
Sipping tequila and listening to Harris and Biden Friday night brought relief, joy, and a sense of sanity and hope. Mas tequila por favor. Salude amigos y amigas – to a better world.
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Bag packed, have passport, beach beckons, will travel. Hit the airport this week, jumping into international travel in time of Covid. Data on air travel passed my bar (url citations below), sanitation techniques in place, social distancing and masking required, Covid rates spiking in US – time to hit the road.
There are numerous countries that will except US citizens with no Covid requirements (Turkey, Brazil, Honduras, and more) plus a short list that will accept US citizens with a 14-day quarantine and/or a negative Covid test within 48 hours of departure. Mexico (my destination) is welcoming travelers and requires neither a quarantine nor negative Covid test. I personally chose to test and verified negative results within 48 hours.
Tucson airport
Travelers at Tucson airport were relatively sparse, although the flight from Tucson to Houston was near full capacity. Most everyone was masked and respectful.
However, there appears to be someone who feels the rules don’t apply to them.
Easy to social distance in the airports as there are so few travelers. Restrooms are in and out with out touching anything, it’s all automated. Flight from Houston to San Jose del Cabo, Mexico was at 15% capacity. I was invited to move to first class, which was at full capacity. Graciously declined and enjoyed stretching out in economy where there were hardly any passengers.
Flight to Cabo
Both flights handed out sanitation wipes on entry to the cabin and small snack packs with water, pretzels, cookie and a wipe in an enclosed plastic bag in flight. I chose to forgo eating or drinking to keep my mask in place the entire flight.
Cleared immigration in Mexico in about 10 mins – no lines, no problemo. Transport was waiting which required hand sanitization and masks. Hand sanitization and masks required prior to entry everywhere in this area of Mexico – supper mercados, resort, restaurant, transport, small tiendas.
Not dealing with the masses, crowding, lines, impatient travelers, packed planes, stuffed overhead bins, plus conversing with respectful and grateful employees (yes, the travel industry is desperate for travelers) made for an easy and enjoyable experience.
Walking the beach, enjoying the sun, sand and surf plus drinking margaritas on election day. No regrets so far.
The upper peninsula of Michigan, or as Michiganders call it, the U.P., also known as Yooper landia by the locals, sports some of the most amazing north woods and great lakes scenery.
Crossing over the 5-mile expanse of the Mighty Mac bridge connecting the lower to the upper peninsula of Michigan transports you to rugged country and the greatest of the Great Lakes, Lake Superior.
I scored a nice campsite at Tahquamenon Falls, River Mouth campground, a stunning river which flows into Lake Superior. A mecca for kayaking, fishing and hiking and with unbeatable coffee morning sunrises and happy hour sunsets.
Hiking the Tahquamenon Falls trail, took me past the lower falls, through green forests and along quiet stretches of river dotted with small swimming holes.
The 34-mile bike from camp to Whitefish Point is flat, meanders near the shoreline and through the woods and ends at the Whitefish Point beach and Shipwreck Museum.
Whitefish Point has been called the graveyard of Lake Superior. The Edmund Fitzgerald went down in a November northwestern gale trying to make it into Whitefish Bay. There are over 550 know shipwrecks in Lake Superior and most were lost in the Whitefish Point area.
Exploring the Whitefish Bay Scenic Byway (the southern end of Whitefish Bay) revealed deserted beaches, wetlands and the spectacular Point Iroquois Lighthouse.
This small area of the U.P. offers only a glimpse of the out-of-door treasures to be found in the northernmost part of Michigan.
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Crossing the border from South Dakota to Minnesota we spot several stands of trees (yahoo trees) and more farmland. Leaving behind country music, evangelical sermons and anti-abortion billboards. Picked up the first public radio station, symphonic programming. Thank you, Minnesota! Turned over 200K miles in the VW Eurovan. The ole girl is running strong.
Rest stops in Minnesota have all converted to touch free. Automatic, sensor activated flush, soap dispensers, faucets, hand dryers and door openers. I was in and out the rest area without touching anything. We have definitely entering a more Covid aware and a blue leaning state.
More trees, huge forests of hardwoods interspersed with pines, as we make our way north through Minnesota and Wisconsin. Red barns and dairy farms dot the landscape, looking for cheese curds and cheese heads. Inland rivers flowing towards big water and a quiet camp our last night on the road.
And there it is – our first big water, Lake Michigan.
Lake Michigan
Crossing the border to the upper peninsula of Michigan, the UP – home of the Yoopers, big timber and pasties.
I love those Yooper pasties, and with gravy
And there she is – the Mighty Mackinaw Bridge. We were lucky to catch the Algoma Sault, a 740 ft self-unloading lake bulk carrier, headed to the Sault Locks and on to Thunder Bay, Canada
Algoma Sault
And then 10 miles more… the lake house…2,600 miles from Tucson AZ.
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Leaving the open range of northern Colorado and cruising through Torrington, Wyoming listening to ZZ Top, Journey, Billy Joel, the Rolling Stones and good oldies like Beast of Burden and It’s Still Rock and Roll to Me. Don’t need satellite radio when you can pick up the local vibes from the nearest towns. Limited masks in the wide-open spaces of Wyoming and NW Nebraska.
Whole lot of nothing but hay bales and open road in this part of the world.
Camped at Ft. Robinson State Park, NB before heading north into the stunning Black Hills of South Dakota and a refreshing dip at the local swimming hole, Cascade Falls.
Then onto Mt. Rushmore where we were almost the only people wearing masks and social distancing. Not surprising as South Dakota is one of the few states that did not implement stay-at-home.
Please come back…we need you
It was a straight shot on I-90 from western SD, passing Wall Drug and the Corn Palace (been there, done that), to eastern SD landing at Lake Vermillion State Recreation Area for the night.
Restrooms have been spotless, but no masks or social distancing in SD. We continue our ritual practice of masks around others, distancing, hand washing and sanitizing with our spray bottle.
Escaping the desert heat and 11 weeks of stay-at-home it felt truly liberating tracking a northern course in my faithful Eurovan. Traffic into the white mountains of Arizona appeared normal, noting numerous campers traveling in both directions. With many campgrounds closed we were fortunate to have reserved a site at Fool’s Hollow State Park in Showlow. Masks seemed option at the campground, camp sites and people were well distanced and restrooms bleached and spotless.
ahhhh…van lifeCamp at Showlow, AZ
Day two was a long drive through the Navajo reservation where only the main highways are open due to the high incidence of covid-19. The reservation has the highest per capita rate of covid-19 in the US. Everyone on the reservation wore masks.
Navajo ReservationNavajo land
Stopped in Delores, CO for a picnic lunch along the Delores river. Again, restrooms were spotless and smelled of bleach. Carrying a spray bottle with isopropanol alcohol to sanitize hands after every interface with gas stations, restrooms or grocery stores.
Delores river
Next it was into the Rocky Mountains for spectacular and cool scenery.
Near Telluride North rim of Black Canyon
Landed at Orvis hot springs in Ridgeway, CO for a relaxing dip in several warm pools before reaching Hotchkiss, CO, social distancing observed.
Orvis Hot Springs
We will spend several days in Hotchkiss, CO camping with our friends John, Neil and Fiona (our camp bubble), cycling, hiking and winery hopping. Masks optional in this area also with about half the population wearing them in stores, wineries and eateries. All employees are masked and it is easy to social distance in these small communities of Hotchkiss and Paonia.
Winery on North Fork of Gunnison Hanging around camphike to lost lake
Just learned that the bighorn fire in Tucson in only 10% contained and my casita is in “set status”. Go is evacuate now. 2020 becomes more surreal each day.
In this Wednesday evening, June 10, 2020 photo, the Bighorn Fire breaks onto the southern slopes of the Santa Catalina Mountains and burns over a pair of homes in the foothills just east of the Finger Rock Trailhead in Tucson, Ariz. Pima County authorities have advised residents of foothills area on the northern outskirts of metro Tucson to be prepared to evacuate because of a lightning-sparked wildfire in nearby mountains. (Kelly Presnell/Arizona Daily Star via AP)
Headed to Oaxaca – your taste buds are in for a treat as this city is a hot spot of mole and pozole. Seven definitive types of Oaxacan mole will keep you salivating, satisfied and searching for more.
A traditional marinade and sauce used in Mexican cuisine, the recipe for mole can vary from family to family and is often a well-kept secret passed down through generations. Ingredients tend to be different based on the various regions of the country. For traditional mole basic ingredients include a combination of chilis, sesame seeds, tomatillos, spices, dried fruits, nuts and chocolate. A simple type of mole may use at least four different types of chilis such as ancho, pasillo, mulato and chipotle.
Mole negro
Moles are typically served over a variety of meats such as pork, chicken or lamb or can be drizzled over tacos, enchiladas, burritos, stuffed peppers and more.
Mole coloradito
Take your pick of moles – negro (black), rojo (red), coloradito, amarillo (yellow), verde (green), pipan verde or rojo, estofado or numerous variations. My favorite was the pipan verde made with pumpkin seeds and green sauce over chicken or pork and almost always served with white rice.
Mole pipan verde
If mole is not your thing definitely give the pozole a try. A traditional Mexican soup or stew, the primary ingredient in pozole is hominy, made from shelled, dried corn that is soaked in water and lime. The chewy texture vaguely resembles the flavor of a corn tortilla.
Pozole blanco
Traditional pozole uses hominy, pork and garlic and may be garnished with chilis, salsas, onions, avocados, lettuce, radishes, lime or cabbage.
Garnishes
The three primary types of pozole are red (rojo) uses chilies such as guajillo, ancho or piquin; green (verde) is made from ingredients like tomatillos, cilantro and sometimes jalapeños; or white, (blanco) made with hominy, pork or chicken and garlic.
As I cocoon (shelter in place) in my casita, maintaining social distance and venturing out only for a daily dose of physical activity and infrequent gathering of food and supplies, I am still trying to wrap my head around the fact that at age 71 I am in the high-risk, elderly category of this C-19 pandemic. Healthy, normal weight, physically active, no chronic diseases and no RX medications – I am still high risk due to my age.
A paper published March 30, 2020 in Lancet Infectious Diseases, by researchers at the Imperial College of London announced the most comprehensive estimates of elevated risk of serious illness (symptoms severe enough to require hospitalization and respiratory support) and death in the elderly from Covid-19. Their data indicates the following mortality rates by age, with the sharpest divide happening at age 70.
Mortality rate Age
0.3% 40s
1.25% 50s
4.0% 60s
8.6% 70s
13.4% 80 plus
(Data collected from patients who died from COVID-19 in Hubei, mainland China, reported by national and provincial health commissions through Feb 8, 2020, and for cases outside mainland China, reported from government or ministry of health websites and media reports for 37 countries, as well as Hong Kong and Macau, until Feb 25, 2020.)
The data also indicated preexisting conditions dramatically raise the risk of dying from Covid-19 and that fragility and declining immunity may be contributors.
It is apparent that age, the number of co-morbidities (chronic diseases) and the strength of the individual’s immune system influence the severity of symptoms and risk of hospitalization and death from Covid-19.
Immunologists have identified some of the specific changes in the immune system associated with aging (immunosenescence). Basically, “our immune system has two sets of defenses against viruses and other pathogens: a first-line army of cells, called leukocytes, that attack invading microbes within minutes to hours, and a second-line force of precisely targeted antibodies and T cells that surge to the battle front as late as several days after”. With advancing age, and/or chronic disease conditions, the immune function weakens.
We are unable to do anything about our chronological age; however, we can utilize methods to boost our immune system. The usual strategies jump forward: reduce stress, get adequate sleep, don’t smoke or vape, eat nutritiously, meditate, spend time in nature and be physically active. I would like to address specifically how exercise boosts immune function.
The immune system is differentially responsive, providing both acute and chronic effects, that reflect the volume of physiological stress during exercise (intensity, duration, frequency). In other words, the contrast in the immune response between a person who regularly walks 30-45 mins. vs. a person who trains for and completes a 26-mile marathon is quite different.
Much current research in the field of exercise immunology is being conducted on moderate exercise bouts of 60 minutes or less per day that have potential preventative and therapeutic value. Exercise has been found to boost the immune system in the following ways:
Exercise improves the immune system defense activity. There is enhanced immunosurveillance, the processes by which cells of the immune system look for and recognize foreign pathogens, such as bacteria and viruses, with moderate exercise. Daily exercise bouts of up to 60 mins. have been shown to enhance immune cell activity.
There is an inverse relationship between moderate exercise and illness risk, which could protect against upper respiratory tract infections and illness. In other words, increasing the volume of exercise leads to a corresponding decrease of risk to immune system dysfunction, until a certain point.
Exercise improves metabolic health and provides an anti-inflammatory response, improving glucose and lipid metabolism over time.
Regular and consistent exercise improves immune regulation, delaying the onset of age-related dysfunction and chronic disease conditions.
In addition, regular physical activity improves mood by stimulating the production of endorphins, the body’s natural pain killers and mood elevators; promotes better sleep; and reduces the levels of the body’s stress hormones, decreasing the risk of illness.
However, more exercise is not always better. Illness risk increases in athletes during periods of intense training and competition. There is significant evidence that high exercise training workloads, competitive events, and the associated physiological, metabolic, and psychological stress are linked to immune dysfunction, inflammation, oxidative stress and muscle damage.
My plan during the Covid-19 pandemic is to continue being physically active: riding my bike 75-100 miles a week, hiking 5-7 miles a week and walking and stretching regularly. Swimming a mile a week is no longer possible as the pool is closed. Although nothing can be assured, I am convinced that my lifetime of vigorous physical activity has strengthened all of my body systems, including my immunity to provide better protection from contracting Covid-19 and the risk of severe symptoms, hospitalization or death.
Whatever your situation during these unusual times, ramp up your mental and physical health and your immune system with regular physical activity.
Landed at Casa Macondo en Puerto Angel en la Costa Chica de Oxaca.
After exploring the more tourist, hip and bohemian vibes of Mazunte, San Augustinillo and Zipolite I chose to stay at the rustic cabana at Casa Macondo located on top of a ridge overlooking the sea. The outdoor shower (no hot water needed), outdoor kitchen and screened in bedroom, offered magnificent viewing and was almost like camping.
A ten-minute walk down a steep stairway made of tires and through a small canyon lead to a pristine cove with three small beaches scattered with several thatched-roof beach restaurants.
Snorkeling from shore along the rocks and coral reef provided abundant fish for viewing.
Ceviche de camarones y una corona for a daily lunch.
Puerto Angel, located on a small bay, is no tourist attraction, but a more authentic fishing village. The walk to town was only 1k, but hot and hilly. The reward a cold corona and fresh shrimp tacos for 25 pesos or fresh pulpo (octopus).
Puerto AngelBringing in the day’s catch – pulvo (Octopus)
