La Senorita

Van life 101 is really not about the van, it’s about the lifestyle. It’s about road tripping and camping along the way. It’s about waking up wherever you want (or when you have to pee, climbing out of that nice warm down bag and hustling down to the toilet). It’s about doing whatever you want each day and moving on when the road beckons. It’s about living surrounded by nature and realizing how little you need to be happy. The less is more kind of living. This is my first post in the series of Van Life 101.

Hitting the road out of Tucson:
Oh No – my abs light just came on in la Señorita, my 1997 VW Eurovan, and I am only in Phoenix! Abs – now what does that mean – air bag system? Not a big deal. I pull over at the next off ramp and check the owner’s manual for abs – anti lock brake system – great, what does that mean? I hope I have breaks! I called my mechanic in Tucson and he said not to worry as it would only effect operation of the vehicle if I slammed on my breaks. I stopped in Flagstaff at the VW dealer and the mechanic cleaned the wire and casing to the left front wheel, where the code indicated a problem, reset the abs light and showed me a large pack rack nest deep in my engine compartment. Wonderful! After a brisk hike through the volcanic rock fields at Sunset Crater National Monument I cleaned out the nest at my campsite and all appears AOK. Headed on tomorrow.

Lava field , Sunset Crater

Sunset Crater camp

In a past life I must have been a dolphin, playfully flitting with my ocean mates. In a future life I prefer to return as a pelican, skimming the wave tops, soaring in formation with a targeted dive for a fresh fish dinner. In this life I am a Pisces, water woman, in search of the perfect swimming hole and the world’s BEST beach.

Playa Flamenco

I have found a slice of nirvana on the small island of Culebra, Puerto Rico. Flamenco Beach ranks as one of those special places and consistently is included in the lists of the “Best World Beaches”. Photos can not capture the stunning splendor of this mile long crescent shaped beach surrounded by green rolling hills, lush tropical plants and palms trees. And, thanks to the locals, Flamenco Beach has been kept free of concrete structures, high rises and big resorts.

The crystal clear water is a kaleidoscope of textures and color. Changing constantly and displaying a shimmering rainbow of varying shades of aqua marine, cobalt, soft blues and deep emerald greens. The crescent shaped land shelters the bay making it a delightful place for open water swimming and snorkeling around the reefs adorning each end of the beach.

And did I mention the sand – white, fine and soft, like velvet caressing the feet or entire body. Silken, yet hard from the receding tide makes for perfect beach walking.

There is a quiet campground at one end of the beach with tables, tent sites, bathrooms and water if you prefer rustic, outdoor accommodations with waves lulling you to sleep under the stars.

Telltale iguana tracks lead to the dense vegetation.

At the end of Flamenco Beach, partially buried in sand, sits an old military tank from when the US Navy used the island as a gunnery range in the 70s.

You can get Puerto Rican street food here too! The fresh and fried snapper is a favorite along with empanillos (empanadas), pinchos (kebabs), tostones (twice fried plantains) and much more. Oh and don’t forget the fresh made mojitos.

I was fortunate to reserve an efficiency apartment at the quiet and well maintained Villa Flamenco on the far end of the beach – life in beach nirvana.

Many thanks to my gracious hosts Juan y Violetta for wonderful stay.

El Yanque National Forest

Landing in the only tropical rain forest in the national forest system, El Yunque National Forest is small in size but big in trees, natural wonder and biodiversity.

An abundant population of geckos and Puerto Rico’s indigenous coqui tree frog populate the area. There are no mosquitos in El Yunque as the water runs rapidly downhill and it rains approximately four times a day, which eliminates standing water. Plus the copious coqui flourish on mosquito larve.

My accommodations for the next three nights are Casa Cubuy, a small rustic, well-maintained ecolodge, perched on the side of the canyon overlooking Rio Blanco bordering El Yunque National Forest. A little coqui has procured the task of protecting my room with his constant nightly and early morning “Co Kee” frog talk, which serves to establish his territory and repel males. So I’m safe and secure, serenaded by frogs, crickets, birds and who knows what else out there in the dark.

As I am always in search of the best swimming hole I didn’t need to travel far – a short hike into the canyon served up numerous lush pools nestled amongst boulders and waterfalls.

Time for a freshing dip

Look, another pool!

An abundant breakfast begins the day and includes a lazy Susan of fresh tropical fruit, the BEST Puerto Rican style oatmeal and breakfast burritos that will last you all day.

Muchas gracias to my hosts, Mary Ann and her son Mathew, for a tranquil stay in this stunning setting. My kind of place.

My gracious and tenacious host, Mary Ann

The O’Mallys, O’Brians, O’Neils, O’Connleys, O’Sheas…Ireland is full of warm, friendly folk ready to sit and talk for a spell. We met Roger from Moville (age 86) and his daughter Therese O’Shea (now living in London) on the ferry from the Republic of Ireland to Northern Ireland, UK. They are still cycling together, taking a 3 day bike tour in Northern Ireland.

Roger (age 86) and his daughter, Therese O’Shea

A woman sitting next to me on the bus told me, “ Yes alrighty, we Irish have a gift for gab”. And if they aren’t talking about the weather they have some wee tale to tell.

Brandon and John at the local pub in Moville – now they had some stories!

And I found the best bike companions traveling the same northern coastal causeway route, Nataly and Cecila (two sisters from Toronto, Cecila now living and working in Kuat). In addition to helping each other read route maps and cue sheets we shared many a good meal and pint at the local pub. Oh yes, and Irish whiskey also!

Cecila and Nataly

Enjoying a wee bit of Irish whiskey at Old Bushmills Distillery

OK – now which direction?

Nataly and Cecila in their matching kits

A big thank you to my many welcoming and helpful Irish hosts on this journey.

Colette and Billy, Howth

Declan, Cosy Cottage, Moville

Ellie, Abbey B&B, Derry

Sharon and Mike, Clifton Hostel, Clifton

JJ, Cul Erg B&B, Portstewart

Marcus and Mary, Hillsea B&B, Balleycastle

Mary and hubby, Glendale B&B, Cushendall

And to Seamus and Nora from Ireland by Bike who arranged the Coastal Causeway bike route and tour! Well done – I loved every minute!

Seamus, Ireland by Bike

Cycling is the ultimate way to get intimate with a country. It was not always easy and yes I walked those 20% grade hills pushing my silver steed. No apologies!

I’ll just walk this one!

The joy of the adventure overwhelmed and infuses ones soul.

Giants Causeway – oh the JOY

Cruising along on the bike I savor the smells (flowers, mowed grasslands, farm animals, bacon cooking and bread baking, the sea). The salty, cool air of the ocean, the dampness, rain droplets, the wind, and sunshine leave residue upon my skin. Ears pick up the sounds of seabirds, crashing waves, whisking wind, approaching vehicles, bleating sheep and barking dogs. Hands constantly shifting gears with changing terrain, grueling uphill climbs at near max effort engage all the physiologic and muscular reserve I can muster. Then the crest of the hill and the steep, exhilarating downhill. It’s a visceral, sensuous connection with the surrounding world.

Photos do not assimilate the sensory assault, the magnitude and impressiveness of the land and sea or the joy of the journey. Never-the-less, I will share a few from the 250K trek by bicycle along the most northern coast of Ireland.

Dunluce Castle

Beach near Port Stewart

Grass farm near Lough Foyle

Following the Coastal Causeway

Swinging Bridge

Beach near Port Stewart

And now it’s time for that Irish beer!

You earned it Gwen!

Fitted on my sturdy steed for the week I was ready for rain that luckily did not materialize. Only light spitting droplets though out the day, just enough to keep on the rain jacket.

Following a hearty Irish breakfast that was either going to fuel me for the day or give me a heart attack I left Derry, northern Ireland in the UK. Farewell to a remarkable city with a history of civil strife and occupation.

Too my surprise, I was accompanied by two sisters from Toronto, Natalie and Cecila (Cecila now living and working in Kuwait), who were riding the same route.

Using detailed cue sheets and maps we headed along the River Foyle to the Atlantic in the most northern region of Ireland. Meandering along small country roads, rolling hills and sheep farms to our destination,
the small, quiet town of Moville.

Upon finding our accommodations at the Cosy Cottage I headed out to the local pub for a pint, a chat with the locals and more hearty Irish food.

REAL Ireland weather is in full force again today – downright wintery. Sipping café con leche in the dinning hall of the hostel I contemplated how to get to the cliffs of the Sliabh peninsula on this miserable day without a car or taking a local tour. The with a bit of Irish luck I met a lovely French couple from a small town near Montreal. They had a car and invited me to drive to the Sliabh Liag peninsula with them.

I’ll just let the day unwind and go along for the ride. And what a grand day it turned out to be as they had that wandering, inquisitive spirit to explore all the less traveled niches and crannies along the way – no guide needed.

We perused Killybegs, a lively fishing town with Ireland’s largest fleet of trawlers, where local and foreign ships tower over the quay.

Stopping at Kilcar we got a personal tour by one of the loomers of the Donegal Tweeds and Woolens facility in this picturesque little town.

Then there are the breathtaking Blue Flag beaches around every hairpin curve – oh if only the weather would have been more accommodating!

And blooming flowers everywhere…

Wooly, grazing sheep in heather pastures.

And finally the narrow, twisting road rises steeply to the crem-de-la-crème of this area – the cliffs of Sliabh Liag, the highest marine cliffs in Europe, rising over 600m above the ocean (Just as dramatic and stunning as the Cliffs of Moher, only more remote and less visited).

It was a don’t-take-off-that-raincoat and a hang-on-to-our-hat kind of day.

There is a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow (must be Irish too!).

Many thanks to Francine and Ansulmo for a bright, enlightening day spent with new friends met along the way.

Now – Ca bhfuil an teach tabhairne? Local Irish Gaeltacht for “Where’s the pub”?

Connemara is a less populated region northwest of Galway with rough inland mountains, ancient desolate bogs, rocky offshore islands, beautiful secluded beaches, a stunning coastline dotted with fishing villages and constantly changing weather.

Clifden served as an ideal base where I stayed at the Clifden Hostal – with a well-stocked kitchen, full breakfast, private rooms and a surprising number of hosteling adults, many from France. My hosts, Mike and Sharon were a wealth of information, town happenings, and local lore.

Clifden proper (pop 2,000) is an assortment of B&Bs, eateries, small shops, and of course pubs with a variety of nightly Irish music.

The town was founded in the mid 1800s by John D’Arcy in an attempt to raise the living standard in a poverty-stricken region by capitalizing on the local natural recourses of fishing, wool, and marble.

Cycling is a particularly rewarding way to absorb the region with numerous routes and back roads. I was fortunate to have five continuous rainless days to explore by bike.

Mannions, the local bike shop, is a third generation family business. I rented a Trek hybrid from John Mannion for ten dollars a day with all the gears needed for getting up the hills.

All of the routes provided endless photo opportunities.

Claddaghduff Peninsula and Omey Tidal Island
A quiet road along an inland bay. Omey Island is accessible only during low tide when you can ride across the strand.
Sweeneys, the local pub, offers up the best clam chowder and of course Guinness.

Roundstone Village Loop
The first 14K is through magnificent and desolate bogs with bleating sheep and cuckoo birds. Lunch at the quaint fishing village of Roundstone and then on to some of the most magnificent beaches in Ireland.

Sky Road Loop
The Sky Road climbs through lush greenery and offers spectacular views.

Errislannon Loop
This quiet off the beaten path route loops around bays and pastures of sheep and horses.

Thank you Jerry for pointing me in the direction of Connemara.

Cannemara National Park was my destination today, only 30 mins. by bus from Clifden where I am based for the week. Much of the present park was part of the former Kylemore Abbey estate and consists of fertile lowlands, bogs, and numerous peaks. The most popular for hiking is Diamond Hill.

The climb to the summit is similar in elevation gain and duration to Blacketts and provided a healthy dose of exercise. Going up…

The reward from the summit is a panoramic 360-degree view of the area, along with blustering wind.

And also a bit of FROLIC and FUN with a new found friend at the summit. Colorful, kindred spirits do attract.

Yes there is a bit of a yarn behind the red dress. However, you will need to supply me with a pint at the local pub to hear all of the details!

There is nothing like finishing off a great hike with a bowl of Irish lamb stew – with real mashed potatoes doused in Irish butter and a pint of Guinness. Life is good!

The sun is shinning, temps are in the mid 70s and the ocean is glistening. I’ve been told this is not normal in Ireland. Time to set off in search of the BEST swimming hole while the luck of the Irish is with me.

I wandered the coastal path between Galway and Sawhill, passing numerous possibilities.

Then I spotted it. Huge slabs of cement jutting into the water, a jumping platform and ladders for easy access and exit.

And I found a hearty group of swim mates who informed me they swim every day – rain, shine or bluster. Many in their group of 30 swim year round. No changing rooms needed as they all have the towel technique perfected. And if the towel slips a bit – who cares at this age.

“A great tonic”, “Better than taking a pill”, “Keeps me chipper” were a few of the comments about the benefits of swimming in this incredibly cold water. Temp was hovering around 16C today. They all thought it was beautiful. Hottest day of the year!

You know my MO – when in Ireland, do as the Irish do. In we GO!