Heading into the “breadbasket” of the USA, Nebraska, the leading grain-producing state with bumper crops of sorghum, corn and wheat, plus an ample supply of cattle. Not many trees here, just never ending prairie land.

Listening to the radio belt out “ I Fell in Love with the Farmer’s Daughter” interspersed with the local AG market report and livestock update I capture a sense of authentic “cornhusker” culture.

Highway 20 across the northern tier of the state keeps me off the expressway and allows a glimpse into the life in towns like Chadron, Gordon, Sandhill, Cody and Valentine. Each with a gas station, convenience store, Dollar General, tavern, café, small local park and plenty of abandoned store fronts.

Silos and grain elevators dot the countryside like age spots on my skin becoming larger and more prevalent with the miles traveled.

Big Ag’s subtle presence is pervasive and barreling down the highway.

I land at a small state park on the Missouri River on the Nebraska/South Dakota border for the night. The only camp area not water logged and underwater along the teeming and muddy Missouri.

I love camp food. Simple, nutritious and fun to cook. I load the cooler with whatever I have in the frigerator and freezer when I leave home, plus a few essential Trader Joe items – fresh ground café, half and half, fresh fruit, cilantro, nuts and dried fruit and of course an ample supply of wine. Heading into Utah, a dry state, I do not want to be out in some desolate campsite with no vino to accompany dinner. If I am lucky I’ll find small farm markets along the way.

I have a perfect little kitchen set-up with a two-burner propane stove, sink and refrigerator. In the morning the kettle is on the stove, boiling water for my one drip cup of café con leche to start the day.

Preparing dinner becomes an event. First I pour a glass on vino, savor the delicate flavor, my natural surroundings, the view and begin dinner preparations from whatever food I happen to have with me. Last night was veggies, eggs, a sprinkle of parmesan cheese and a toasted bagel in olive oil. Tonight I made a delicious Quesada with Irish cheese, black beans, greens chilies, tomatoes and fresh cilantro.

And yes, I eat right out of the pan I cook in with my handy spork, which always travels with me. Keeps the food hot and less dishes to wash.
Bon provecho!

“What day is it” I ask when chatting on the phone with a friend cruising towards the Wyoming Nebraska border (blue tooth of course, all hands on the wheel and eyes on the road). It is easy to lose track of time meandering across this great expanse of land.

The only cell reception for the past 72 hours is when I am driving near a major highway. “No service” the phone reads at my last 2 campsites. OK with me…until the withdrawal symptoms kick in. I can’t check email, text, read the news, let my key peeps know where I am. A short burst of anxiety quickly passes as I sit listening to the birds, leaves rustle, crickets and frogs begin their evening choral arrangement, watch fish jump and smell the pines. There is no other sound, no distraction. Forcing presence of all senses….disconnected or connected?

Cruising down I-80 and along back roads between Rock Springs and Cheyenne, Wyoming. On My! Why does anyone want to live in Wyoming – wind, wide open desolate country with big-time storms, railway cars and withered towns.

I guess it must be because there aint nobody gonna tell anyone what to do out in this hinterland….especially in the winter. Some pretty run down little burgs and wild looking bearded men in pickups in this part of the country.

Coyotes, deer and pronghorn jump out of nowhere and graze along the roadside. I keep driving.

I landed in the north end of Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, Wyoming. It feels like the middle of no where. Big sky and spacious wilderness.

The camp host, Fa, greeted me with a German accent, barefoot and looking like he just arrived from a Rastafarian compound in the Caribbean. Nice chap – I’d like to know his story. Then there is one big rig RV in camp that keeps turning on his generator…grrrr. Must need to keep his ice cream cold as he fires up his satellite TV to watch Fox news. I found a quiet camp with a great view.

I thought I would take my first bath in the chilling waters of Flaming Gorge, when to my delight there is a HOT shower in the rest room, solar powered. Such good fortune. Settled into to a beautiful evening sky, sunset and stunning views.

After a short morning hike I could not resist a dip in the gorge. Water temp about 63. Preparing for the frigid, big waters of northern Michigan.

Onto a real Jurassic Park where Stegosaurus, Allosaurus and Diplodocus once roamed – Dinosaur National Monument – where you can view over 1,500 bony dinosaur remains from the the late Jurassic period.

The Green River snakes through the monument forced through tight channels with towering cliffs, culminating in the Split Mountain Canyon.

A quiet river-side campground offered a starting point for a 20-mile bike ride through the monument and a lovely morning hike.

I love my National Parks Senior Pass, which you can purchase at age 62. It’s a life-long pass that allows free entrance to any National Park or Monument. Plus, campground fees are 50% for pass holders – which amounts to $10/night at most National Monuments and less in National Forests. Cost-effective recreation and entertainment in some of my favorite areas in the U.S.

Tonight I am in need of a shower. No shower in most of these campgrounds, so it is dip in the Green River, which I veto as it is running fast, high and is dang cold. My fall back is my handy little shower on the back of La Senorita. It gets the job done. Now for a glass of chilled sauvignon blanc…

La buena vida…

I have traversed 49 of the 50 states savoring some of the most iconic and scenic roads in the U.S. From Blanding to Hanksville, Utah, Highway 95 ranks in the top ten. Photos can not express the magnificent and expansive desolation of this scenic byway; it must be experienced with the naked eye.

Massive geologic formations create awe and delight around each curve of the road.

And then the mighty, muddy Colorado River emerges from the rock cliffs snaking towards the Grand Canyon. This is a not-to-be-missed drive through the wonders of southern Utah.

I spent the night in Hanksville (and there is not much in Hanksville) at Dukes RV. A small local RV park whose redeeming features were wifi and a hot shower – first time since leaving Tucson to have both – ahhhh such convenience!

I sit in camp sipping café con leche, made from my one-cup drip cone. Scents of juniper, sage and pinion permeate the air. Ominous dark clouds, whiffs of rain and far off thunder fill the landscape to the north, ghost rain in the west.

Camp neighbors hustle to pack up tents and belongings before the approaching storm, pile in their vehicles and scurry off to their next destination. I sit sipping café con leche, feeling the cool nearness of rain, pondering the day.

Today it was on to Natural Bridges National Monument via the always impressive Monument Valley.

After a lunch stop at Goosenecks State Park overlook it was a three mile gravel road climb with 10% grades and constant switchbacks.

The seasoned, 22 yr. old Senorita (Eurovan), handled the climb strong in second gear.

A stunning drive through Cedar Mesa, Grand Gulch and Moki Dugway on the edge of Bears Ears National Monument – or what use to be Bears Ears until our current President stole it from the National Park Service and blatantly gave it to his oil and gas cronies.

Hiking the three natural bridges (Sipapu, Kachina and Owachomo) involved a steep ascent deep into the canyon, including 3 wooden ladders, unveiling a geological treat.

All three bridges were formed by the erosive action of moving water scouring through sandstone, different from the way arches are formed, which is mainly by frost and seeping moisture. The area is surrounded by cryptobiotic soil that looks like a black lumpy crust, but holds moisture, stabilizes and adds nutrients to the soil for vegetation to prosper.

A lovely and quiet camp under a gadzillion stars. I find these smaller national monument and national forest campgrounds more compatible with my travel mojo – no hookups, no water and pit toilets – less people and few big rig RVs.

My next stop is Desert View Campground in the east end of the Grand Canyon. This big daddy of all canyons always impresses whether walking the rim trails with panoramic views or venturing into the bowels – steep, dry, rugged trails – an epic and memorable hiking experience.

I had planned to spend two nights – hiking and cycling the canyon road, but the mass of overzealous tourists overwhelmed me. Unfortunately, the Grand Canyon has become one of the over-visited and crowded National Parks with tourists rushing to each overlook, jumping from their car and snapping a selfie with the giant crevice in the background. Even the elk in camp have adapted to all the people.

After a great rim hike I opted to move on to the more remote Navajo National Monument. Good choice. Lots of empty campsites, no electrical or water hookups and no big RV rigs.

Navajo National Monument is located about 25 miles from Kayenta and is the site of the Betatakin cliff dwellings. The only way to access the cliff dwellings is to take the 5 mile guided hike. My guide was a delightful local Navajo woman and park ranger who shared past and current traditions of the Navajo people as we traversed into Fir Canyon.

The prehistoric Anasazi Betatakin cliff dwellings originally contained 120 rooms. Approximately 80 remain intact today.

The trail is also the launch point for the 17mi RT backpack to the Keet Steel cliff dwellings, the second largest in the US behind Mesa Verde. I’ll definitely plan on this next year as I could have scored a permit due to cancelations.

As we entered the deep, narrow canyon it was like traversing upward in vegetative zones. With less sunshine reaching the depths of the canyon there is less moisture evaporation, cooler temps and lush vegetation. Several Navajo families continue to farm the canyon bottom growing maize, beans and squash.